YELLOW FIN TUNA | PORK CHOP | CRISPY FLAT CHICKEN
cool | warm | hot
Serves 4
This is the dish that changed the way I thought about how to put food on a plate. The trio has replaced tasting menus as a way to showcase food. My inspiration here was to utilize the whole loin. The belly, tail and center all have different and wonderful characteristics. This dish showcases tuna like no other.
To build the dish
1/2 lb (225 g) tuna trim, cut into small dice
12 extra-large green olives, halved and pits removed
1 lemon, zest only
4 fillets white anchovies, chopped
5-6 basil leaves, chiffonade
2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) sherry vinegar
4–5 cloves roasted garlic, smashed
coarse salt
freshly ground white pepper
In a large non reactive bowl mix all the ingredients together and let stand at room temperature to marry all the flavors.
1 lb (500 g) center-cut tuna
1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
1 green zucchini, sliced as thinly as possible into ribbons
1 yellow zucchini, sliced as thinly as possible into ribbons
2 Tbsp (30 mL) sun-dried tomato purée
8 large basil leaves
1 cup (250 mL) gazpacho sauce
Cut the tuna into logs, about 1 x 1 x 3 inches (2.5 x 2.5 x 7.5 cm). Rub the tuna with the olive oil and set aside. In a cast iron frying pan over high heat sear the tuna log on all sides until lightly charred, about 15 seconds per side. Remove and reserve.
In the same pan, or a grill pan if you have one, lightly char the zucchini ribbons on both sides and quickly remove them from the pan and let cool. Lay the zucchini ribbons in alternating colors to form a 3 x 6-inch (7.5 x 15-cm) rectangle. Spread 1 ½ tsp (7.5 mL) of sun-dried tomato purée on each zucchini mat and top with a basil leaf or 2, depending on their size. Place a tuna log on each mat and roll with a little bit of tension. Cover and reserve.
2 red Roma tomatoes
2 yellow tomatoes
1 yellow pepper, roasted, peeled and chopped
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 scallions, white only, minced
1 tsp (5 mL) piri-piri-style hot sauce
2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil
coarse salt
1 lemon, juice and zest
Prepare a bowl of ice water.
Score the bottom of the tomatoes with a paring knife and blanch in boiling water until you can see the skin separating from the flesh, about 15 seconds. Quickly remove with a wire strainer and plunge into the ice water to stop the cooking process. Carefully peel and discard the skins. Cut the tomato in half and gently squeeze the seeds and juice over a fine mesh strainer to separate. Discard the seeds and reserve the tomato water. Dice and place in a large non reactive bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and stir until well mixed. Cover and keep at room temperature until needed.
2 canned piquillo peppers
1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika
2 cups (500 mL) vegetable stock
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
1 cup (250 mL) short-grain rice
1 dry cured chorizo sausage
16 small pasta clams, scrubbed
4 oz (100 g) tuna, sliced as thinly as possible
8 black tiger shrimp, 21-25 count, peeled and de-veined
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the piquillo peppers, smoked paprika and vegetable stock until smooth, about 60 seconds. Remove and reserve. In a saucepan over medium heat sauté the shallot and garlic in the olive oil until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir until coated. Add the piquillo pepper purée and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook, covered, for 15 minutes and then add the clams and sausage. Continue cooking for 3-4 minutes and then add the shrimp. Continue to cook until the clams have opened and the shrimp have turned pink. Remove from the heat and fold in the sliced tuna. Cover and keep warm until needed.
When ready to serve:
Spoon some of the gazpacho sauce in the center of a warm dinner plate. On a clean work surface slice the tuna logs into 3 pieces and place on top of the sauce. To one side of this spoon some of the tuna cool olive salad and on the opposite side some of the tuna hot rice.
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PORK CHOP
baby bok choy | black bean clams | kumquat-garlic sauce
Serves 4
Pork is mild enough to support some pretty bold flavors. I love the combination of salty clams and fermented black beans. The entire dish creates an amazing aroma in your kitchen.
To build the dish
double-cut pork chops
stir-fry paste
baby bok choy
black bean clams
kumquat-garlic sauce
crispy noodles
2 double-cut pork chops, Frenched, each about 1 lb (450 g)
1 Tbsp (15 mL) stir-fry paste
1 Tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil
coarse salt
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Place a wire rack over a sheet pan.
Tie the double-cut pork chops with butcher's twine between the bones to help keep their shape. Rub the stir-fry paste over the pork chops until it is evenly distributed. Heat the sesame oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and cook the chops for 3 minutes on each side. Be careful not to burn the paste, you want only a light char. Remove from the heat, transfer to the prepared sheet pan and place on the middle rack in the oven. Roast for 10–12 minutes. Remove from the oven and rest in a warm place until needed.
1 oz (25 g) ginger, peeled and minced
6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 Thai bird chilies, split and seeds removed
1 cup (250 mL) loosely packed cilantro leaves
1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil
¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse together all the ingredients to form a smooth paste. Remove and store in an airtight plastic container in the refrigerator until needed.
6-8 heads baby bok choy
1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) stir-fry paste
2 Tbsp (30 mL) Chinese cooking wine
On a Japanese mandolin set to 1/8-inch (3-mm) thickness, slice each baby bok choy bulb until all the bok choy is sliced. Place all the sliced bok choy in a large bowl. Add the sesame oil and stir-fry paste. Mix until well coated.
In a large sauté pan over high heat quickly sear the bok choy mixture until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Carefully deglaze with the cooking wine. Toss until the wine has evaporated, about 15 seconds. Remove from the heat and keep warm until needed.
1 lb (500 g) pasta clams
1 tsp (5 mL) cornmeal
1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) stir-fry paste
2 pieces star anise
1 Tbsp (15 mL) fermented black beans
½ cup (125 mL) plum wine
½ cup (125 mL) veal jus
Place the clams and cornmeal in a large bowl, run under water and let the clams take in some of the cornmeal. This helps the clams to purge any sand they might have inside. Wash any remaining cornmeal off the clams. Reserve until needed.
In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, bring the sesame oil almost to its smoke point. Carefully add the clams then the stir-fry paste. Quickly toss to evenly coat the clams. Be careful not to burn the paste. Add the star anise, black beans and plum wine. Cover and steam the clams until just opened, about 2 minutes. Add the veal jus and adjust the seasoning if needed.
½ cup (125 mL) granulated sugar
½ cup (125 mL) kumquats, washed and cut in half
½ cup (125 mL) garlic cloves, peeled
1 lime, juice only
2 Tbsp (30 mL) orange brandy
In a small saucepan over medium heat the sugar with 2 Tbsp (30 mL) of water. Cook, stirring often, until the sugar has melted and turns light brown. Quickly and carefully add the kumquats and garlic, stirring to coat them with the caramel. Add 6 Tbsp (90 mL) of water and continue to cook, stirring, until all the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes.
Add the lime juice and cook until the mixture has come to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the brandy and continue to simmer, stirring, until all the liquid has evaporated, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat, let cool completely and store in an airtight plastic container in the refrigerator until needed.
vegetable oil for frying
24 strands dried angel hair pasta
Preheat deep-fryer to 375°F (190°C). Line a bowl with paper kitchen towel.
When the fryer is ready, carefully sprinkle the dried pasta into the hot oil. Fry until crispy and most of the bubbling has stopped, about 30 seconds. Remove and transfer to the prepared bowl. Reserve, uncovered, until needed.
When ready to serve
Place a small mound of the stir-fried baby bok choy in the center of a warm dinner plate. On a clean work surface slice the double pork chops in half and place on top. Pour some of the black bean clams over and garnish with kumquat-garlic sauce and crispy noodles.
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CRISPY FLAT CHICKEN
fajita vegetables | mole rub | tortilla fries
Serves 4
I love the ladies at independent food markets. One grandmother in particular turned me onto prepare dried mole sauces and how easy they are to cook with. The only real work involved in this dish is de-boning the chicken. The rest is easy because the vegetables are cooked by the chicken.
To build the dish
crispy flat chicken
fajita vegetables
mole rub
tortilla fries
2 whole chickens, about 2 ½ lb (1 kg) each
4-5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced as thinly as possible
¼ cup (60 mL) cilantro leaves
1 jalapeño pepper, sliced as thinly as possible
coarse salt
¼ cup (60 mL) mole rub
Place the chickens' breast side up on a clean, flat work surface. Use your index finger to find the sternum. Run a boning knife along the sternum and remove the breast from the rib cage. Now remove the leg from the carcass at the hip joint. With the leg flat, run your knife along both sides of the bone, being careful not to cut all the way through. Remove the leg meat from the bone and run your fingers over the surface of the meat to see if any cartilage was left behind. Remove if so. Between 2 sheets of plastic wrap, carefully pound both the breast and the boneless leg with the flat side of a meat mallet until the flesh is even and about ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Repeat until all the portions have been flattened. Use your index finger to carefully separate the flesh from the skin and make little pockets. Stuff the pockets with a couple of garlic slices, cilantro leaves and jalapeño slices. Repeat until you have evenly distributed the flavorings under the skin. With the meat side up, season with salt and brush on the mole rub. Reserve, covered, in the refrigerator.
1 red pepper, washed and sliced into ¼-inch (0.5-cm) rings
1 yellow pepper, washed and cut into ¼-inch (0.5-cm) rings
1 poblano pepper, washed and cut into ¼-inch (0.5-cm) rings
4 scallions, washed and trimmed into 3-inch (7.5-cm) batons
Preheat oven to 500°F (260°C).
In a large bowl, toss all the vegetables together. On an unlined baking sheet, arrange the vegetables in 4 piles. Place a flattened chicken on each pile and transfer to the middle rack of the oven. Bake until the skin is crispy and firm to the touch, about 10 minutes.
1 cup (250 mL) prepared dried mole
2 limes, juice only
½ bunch cilantro, picked and washed
¼ cup (60 mL) corn oil
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, blend all the ingredients into a smooth paste, about 1 minute. Remove and refrigerate, covered, until needed.
1/2 lb (250 g) fresh corn tortillas
corn oil for deep-frying
coarse salt
Preheat deep-fryer to 375°F (190°C). Line a bowl with paper kitchen towel.
Stack the tortillas about 4 or 5 high. With a heavy blade French knife, slice as thinly as possible. Use your hands to carefully break them apart into individual strands. Sprinkle the strands into the fryer and gently toss from side to side with a wire strainer to help cook quickly and evenly. Remove and transfer to the prepared bowl. Season with salt and reserve in a warm place.
When ready to serve
Spread some of the mole rub in the center of a warm dinner plate with a pallet knife. Place fajita vegetables and a half chicken on top of the rub and garnish with tortilla fries.
